Crochet in History: From the Lower Class to the Royal Palace

Hello, crafty friends!

Don’t you know that crochet was only seen as a lower-class necessity? As to how it became a legit art in history, that’s what we have to talk about in this blog. But first, Happy International Crochet Day! 

Queen Victoria’s scarf awarded to Private Alfred Henry Du Frayer of the NSW Mounted Rifles. Photo is in public domain in possession of Australian War Memorial

Spoiler alert: no one actually knows who invented crochet and where it exactly began. Experts find it hard to search for evidence of earliest crochet practices because the natural fibers used in ancient times had already decomposed over time.  

But a lot of cultures and countries claim their own crochet origin accounts—such as England, France, South Africa, Italy, China, and Arabia. Others believe that the Middle East is where crochet started before it spread to Spain because of its wide trade route. 

As to how the term “crochet” originated, that we can tell. It comes from the French word “croc” or “croche,” which means “hook.” 

By Pierre-Auguste Renoir - http://www.clarkart.edu/Collection/4213, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17250547

Crochet Forms in History

In her book A Living Mystery, the International Art & History of Crochet, American crochet expert Annie Potter, wrote that the modern art of true crochet as known today is believed to have developed around the 16th century. France called it “crochet lace,” while England called it “chain lace.” 

A largely-accepted theory claims that one of the earliest precursors of crochets is believed to have developed from the Chinese needlework, an oldest embroidery form also popular in India, Turkey, Persia, and North Africa. It reached Europe in the 1700s and was called “tambouring.” This technique involved a background fabric, much like other embroidery works. It is believed that the tambour craft must have been done using a very fine thread because the tambour hooks were as thin as sewing needles. 

Illustration for section 12 in Encyclopedia of Needlework. Fig. 844. Position of the hands in tambouring.

By Thérèse de Dillmont - https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20776/20776-h/20776-h.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=157009826

Over time, the needlework technique of tambour evolved into French’s “crochet in the air” by the end of the 18th century, discarding the background fabric.

Another forerunner of modern crochet is believed to be what is known as “shepherd’s knitting.” It uses a single hook to weave fabrics and create garments warm enough for shepherds in rural communities.   

The first mention of the word “crochet” to describe the craft appeared in the Dutch magazine, Penélopé, published in 1823. It contained instructions for creating purses using crochet technique. 

Illustration of a crocheted purse in the Dutch monthly publication, "Penélopé"

By A. B. Van Meerten - Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=41900621

Crochet in Famine

The first and widely-recognized world crochet book with crochet patterns was Knitting, Crochet and Netting, and it was written by Eléonore Riego de la Branchardiere, who was considered as the “mother of modern crochet.” She published several more pattern books, helping and changing the lives of thousands of women from impoverished families when they used crochet to earn a living during the Irish Great Famine in 1846–1852 .

From the Lower Class to the Royal Palace

Crochet was associated with poverty and seen as a rough imitation of lace, which was considered to be more luxurious at the time. Eléonore’s books helped elevate crochet until it would be accepted as a legitimate artform. Similarly, Queen Victoria became instrumental in changing the perception toward crochet, especially in the upper class, when she began commissioning and wearing Irish crocheted outfits. She also learned to crochet in the mid-19th century and continued doing so into her later years. 

Crochet in the Modern Times

The craft was introduced to America when Irish emigrants brought their crochet pieces and techniques with them. In 1995, the Crochet Guild of America (CGOA) was established to promote its versatility and preservation. Today, crochet remains to be a well-loved artform practiced by many from all walks of life.

As we celebrate the International Crochet Day, let us remember its colorful evolution as a craft. 

Happy crocheting!

Rena

Sources:

• https://writerkarenpope.com/2019/02/28/history-of-crochet/
• A Living Mystery, the International Art & History of Crochet,
  Annie Louise Potter, A.J. Publishing International, 1990
• léonore Riego de la Branchardière: The Mother of Modern Crochet
• pressreader.com
• A purse in simple openwork crochet